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The Chicago Traveler

Mas

by Matt B on November 29th, 2007

When co-owner Hubie Greenwald and Executive Chef John Manion first conceptualized Mas, they thought about restaurants that were fun and lively. So they put together a place (just west of the Ruby Room) that had a fun atmosphere but didn't sacrifice the quality of the food or service. Patrons enjoy Latin-influenced dishes amidst dim lighting and earth tones in an upscale setting. Exposed brick walls and hanging beaded lanterns give the place an intimate, stylish feel.

Most of the food isn't truly authentic; it's contemporary Latin. The term 'Nuevo Latino' is a phrase that gets thrown around a lot, and, I have to admit, it's not one I particularly care for. It's all rather subjective. But whatever you call it, Mas takes influences from several countries in Central and South America and combines them with modern styles of food. Using regional farmers and producers whenever possible, the menu flourishes with Latin products and spices but isn't overdone with them. Begin with appetizers like the arepa (spiced fried shrimp, Colombian corn cake, and beberete salsa), which has so many different flavors and textures to enjoy. From tuna-papaya tacos to chile-cured tenderloin, standard Latin fare is given a contemporary kick. Among entrees, seared rare yellowfin tuna rubbed with chimichurri is impressively tender, and the New York strip served with cabrales butter, tobacco onions, and chipotle mashed potatoes is a hit among meat-eaters. However, the most acclaimed dish is the vegetarian's delight: an appetizer offering empanadas stuffed with wild mushrooms, goat cheese, and walnuts.

A remarkable list of cocktails accompanies the menu. Don't be afraid to give into the mojito or the Brazilian specialties, the caipirinha and the cocorissima. The Mas y Mas margarita, the restaurant's signature cocktail, is a delicious combination of blue agave reposado tequila, orange liqueur, and freshly squeezed lime juice. Or ask about the Mas y Mas con vino if you're a fan of sangria. On Mondays, you can enjoy mojitos, margaritas, and martinis for just $5 each.

The music is loud and so are the people, giving Mas and its diners an energetic Latin boost they won't soon forget.

Mas ($$$): 1670 W Division St; 773-276-8700
Sun ' Thurs: 5:30 p.m. ' 10:00 p.m.
Fri ' Sat: 5:30 p.m. ' 11:00 p.m.
Street parking, valet available
Public trans: Bus # 9, X9, 56, 70 or Blue Line train (Division)
http://www.masrestaurant.com/

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POSTED IN: Restaurants

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