The Chicago Traveler

Chicago is inhabited by people from around the world, which you can see in its neighborhoods, shops, and restaurants. Take for example the neighborhood just a couple blocks from my apartment: Andersonville. It started as a Swedish community, but if you look around, Middle Eastern spots are popping up too. So let’s begin our International Tour of Chicago by looking at the Middle East.

Our first destination: Afghanistan. Tucked away in a mini-mall on Dempster Street in Skokie is Kabul House. This authentic Afghan eatery is the only one of its kind in town, and its name comes from the capital of Afghanistan. Afghan food is a cross between Indian and Middle Eastern. Delicious appetizers include mantu (steamed ground-beef- and onion-filled dumplings topped with spicy yogurt sauce and sprinkled with mint) and the house special, kadu (sautéed pumpkin cooked in special spices). And while entrees include large skewers of marinated chicken, tender lamb, and charbroiled Mahi-Mahi, there are also a number of dishes that you won’t find anywhere else in the city, including the murgh koubediah, chicken biryani, and quorma chalau.

Our next stop is Iran. For great Iranian/Persian cuisine in Chicago, head to Noon O’Kabab just south of Kedzie and Lawrence Avenues. “Noon O’Kabab” translates to “bread and kebab” and was opened ten years ago by brother and sister Mir and Parvin Naghavi. The food is flavorful, home-cooked, and authentic. Four beautiful grains of rice are served with many of the dishes, including the highly recommended lamb shank cooked in tomato and cinnamon sauce and the chenjeh, tender choice rib eye cooked over an open fire.

For a taste of Israel, we come to the intersection of Devon and California Avenues to a place called Taboun Grill. A taboun is the traditional clay oven used for baking pita, and it’s no wonder why this place is named after it. Their pitas are soft, crunchy, and heavenly delicious. This Israeli spot has developed a loyal following, especially for those looking for a tasty kosher (CRC-approved) meal. Great appetizers include the kubeh (cracked wheat dumpling filled with ground beef) and Moroccan cigars (spicy ground beef in crispy wrapper), but it’s the hummus that really stands out. Try the specialty taboun mixed grill (chicken tenders sautéed with onion and garlic) or the schnitzel (breaded lean chicken breast, lightly fried). Know before you go: the restaurant is BYOB, but only for certified kosher wine. And just what is the secret to the restaurant’s success? “All of the recipes are my mom’s,” owner Anat Trace laughs.

Our Middle Eastern journey continues to Lebanon, and at Basha (a Middle Eastern grill in Skokie) you can indulge in the flavors of this country, known as “the Paris of the Middle East.” Basha (which means “leader”) serves up a menu of all the traditional Middle Eastern favorites like beef and chicken shawarmas, hummus, kebabs, and baba ghanouj, plus exclusively Lebanese dishes, like the fattoush salad (pita bread, onions, cucumber, lemon juice, tomatoes, mint, parsley, and green peppers). The service may be a bit slow sometimes, but that’s because everything is being made fresh. It will be well worth the wait.

Finally, a little Turkish delight at A La Turka in Lakeview, where you can sit cross-legged on pillows, dine with your fingers, and enjoy some belly-dancing. The restaurant is a total cultural experience. Since 1997, the decor here has been imported from Istanbul, and there are even hookahs for you and your friends to enjoy. Traditional Turkish specialties include enginar (artichoke stuffed with spinach and feta cheese) and karniyarik (baby eggplant delicately sautéed and stuffed with ground beef, onions, tomatoes, and parsley). The roasted lamb shank (kuzu firin) is the big seller here, roasted in its own juices and served with potatoes and carrots, garnished with slices of eggplant. The soft music makes for a romantic setting, but everything changes when the belly dancers come out to play. They shake and groove to loud beats, enticing everyone to join (and tip) them. Weekends are extremely busy, so remember to make reservations.

Kabul House ($): 3320 Dempster St (Skokie); 847-763-9930
Tues – Sat: 11:30 a.m. – 10:00 p.m.
Sun: 1:00 p.m. – 9:00 p.m.
Free parking lot
Public trans: Bus # 250 (Pace)
http://www.kabulhouse.com/

Noon O’Kabab ($): 4661 N Kedzie Ave; 773-279-8899
Mon – Thurs: 11:00 a.m. – 10:00 p.m.
Fri – Sat: 11:00 a.m. – 11:00 p.m.
Sun: 11:00 a.m. – 9:00 p.m.
Street parking
Public trans: Bus # 81 or Brown Line train (Kedzie)
http://www.noonokabab.com/

Taboun Grill ($$): 6339 N California Ave; 773-381-2606
Sun – Thurs: 11:00 a.m. – 10:30 p.m.
Fri: 11:00 a.m. – 2 hours before sundown
Sat: 2 hours after sundown – 12 midnight
(Yemenite Brunch: 10:00 a.m. – 3:00 p.m., Sunday)
Street parking
Public trans: Bus # 93, 155
http://www.taboungrill.com/

Basha ($): 3445 Dempster St (Skokie); 847-329-8855
Mon – Thurs: 11:00 a.m. – 10:00 p.m.
Fri – Sat: 11:00 a.m. – 11:00 p.m.
Sun: 12 noon – 10:00 p.m.
Free parking lot
Public trans: Bus # 250 (Pace)

A La Turka ($): 3134 N Lincoln Ave; 773-935-6101
Sun – Thurs: 5:00 p.m. – 11:00 p.m.
Fri – Sat: 5:00 p.m. – 12 midnight
Hookah Lounge
Fri – Sat: 7:00 p.m. – 2:00 a.m.
Street parking; pay lot
Public trans: Bus # 9, X9, 11, 77 or Brown Line train (Paulina)
http://www.alaturkachicago.com/

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